The internship is getting a bit repetitive at this point, so I thought I would share what I have learned about the differences between knits and wovens. I work with the wovens- tops, dresses, and pants (which includes denim). Knits is a completely different area with it's own set of rules.
When measuring woven garments, the garments can be stretched a little to meet the necessary measurement. They fabric gives a bit and it needs to be as flat as possible when measuring. Knits are obviously stretchy, so when laying out a knit piece you have to be very careful. In order to flatten out the knit garment, one should just pat it down flat rather than pulling or stretching it. The measurements need to be accurate before any stretch is factored in.
The actual measurements are different for both too. For example, all woven pieces will ask for circumferences: bust, waist, high hip, low hip, sweep (which is the bottom opening of tops or dresses), muscle (measured an inch from the armhole in the sleeve), forearm (measured six inches up from the sleeve opening), knee, ect. On knit garments, the number is only half the circumference, so exactly the number you get when you measure flat. It's kind of nice not to need to double the number for knits- saves me the math, I was confused, however, the first time that I measured knits because I didn't know the numbers were halved. Knits will also measure things by ribs, or the variations in type of knit. For instance, a woven top will ask for the bottom hem measurement, but a knit may ask for the ribbed trim measurement because it is knit as a whole piece completely finished.
I thought I would also explain what the major measurements are on woven tops since I work with those the most:
Across Shoulder- measured from shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Across Front- 5" down from high point shoulder (HPS) (often 6" on plus sizes)
Across Back- 5" down from HPS (also 6" on plus sizes)
Neck Width- from HPS to center back to other HPS- a 3-point measurement
Front Neck Drop- from HPS to top of front neckline
Back Neck Drop- from HPS to top of back neckline
Shoulder Slope- measurement from line parallel of HPS down to shoulder seam
Bust circumference- measured from 1" below the armhole
Waist Placement- 15 1/2" down from HPS
Waist Circumference- around the 15 1/2" measurement
High Hip Placement- typically 19 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
High Hip Circumference- measured at 19 1/2"
Low Hip Placement- 23 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
Low Hip Circ.- measured at 23 1/2"
Body Length- measured from center back neck to hem
Pants have a whole different set of measurements, but I don't measure them often so I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head.
Hopefully more pictures to come soon!
Sunday, July 15, 2012
Friday, July 6, 2012
a different kind of model
So I have realized in talking to people about what I do and see at work that people don't realize that fit models are not the tiny twigs you see on the runway. At least not at Michael Kors anyway. This week I figured I would fill you in on some information about fit models since it was a slow work week, what with July 4th and all.
Michael Kors uses fit models who fit in size 8 and a medium, whether that is pants, skirts, tops, dressed, jackets, anything. Everything we make gets fit and most of the time a garment will go through mulitple fittings before it is approved for production. We use a few main fit models at MK. The models for Missy, which is normal sizing, are all size 8's. However, we have variations of size 8's. For example, Bess is on the smaller size of the 8 and Jillian is on the fuller side of an 8. Because not everyone is the same size 8, the styles are adjusted to fall somewhere in between in order to accommodate as many customers as possible.
We also have a plus size model who fits every style that comes in plus. Susan is a size 2X or 18W, depending on what garment is being fit. She is very aware of the measurements she needs because the style has to still look congruent with the Missy version. Susan is always asking our tech designers, "What did Missy do?" so she can help us decide how much needs to be added or removed in her fit to stay consistent. Susan has to be very aware of all these numbers because the designers who actually create the looks do not come to plus size fittings. Designers only come to the Missy fittings. At the Missy fittings, the designers have a say in how the fit was intended to look and can change anything they want in fittings. Our tech designers take in to consideration the designers' requests and they work together to find a way to make things work out the best way possible. Then in the plus fittings our designers have to go over these changes with Susan.
We have a petite fit model, but she rarely comes in for fittings. I have actually never met her. Ninety percent of the time, we don't fit petite. The petite sizes are figured out with our set of grading rules. We have mulitple sets of grading rules. As everything is fit to a size 8, we must then use grading rules to grade the sizes up and down for the remaining sizes needed. These types of measurements are usually only 1/4" or 1/2" increments. To grade up to Plus, however, the increments are significantly larger. For example, typically to grade from a Missy size up to Plus, the body length measurement of a top would increase by about 1 1/2 inches or more. One and a half inches is not a lot in terms of incehs, but when working in fashion, it can mean a big difference!
Our fit models are also measured every season, so roughly four times a year. We need to measure them and keep track of their major measurements so we know that our clothes are still accurate sizes. While our models do not need to be the skinniest, most perfect models in the world, we still need them to stay a consistent size. So if you happen to fit good measurements of average sizes, try your hand at fit modelling!
Michael Kors uses fit models who fit in size 8 and a medium, whether that is pants, skirts, tops, dressed, jackets, anything. Everything we make gets fit and most of the time a garment will go through mulitple fittings before it is approved for production. We use a few main fit models at MK. The models for Missy, which is normal sizing, are all size 8's. However, we have variations of size 8's. For example, Bess is on the smaller size of the 8 and Jillian is on the fuller side of an 8. Because not everyone is the same size 8, the styles are adjusted to fall somewhere in between in order to accommodate as many customers as possible.
We also have a plus size model who fits every style that comes in plus. Susan is a size 2X or 18W, depending on what garment is being fit. She is very aware of the measurements she needs because the style has to still look congruent with the Missy version. Susan is always asking our tech designers, "What did Missy do?" so she can help us decide how much needs to be added or removed in her fit to stay consistent. Susan has to be very aware of all these numbers because the designers who actually create the looks do not come to plus size fittings. Designers only come to the Missy fittings. At the Missy fittings, the designers have a say in how the fit was intended to look and can change anything they want in fittings. Our tech designers take in to consideration the designers' requests and they work together to find a way to make things work out the best way possible. Then in the plus fittings our designers have to go over these changes with Susan.
We have a petite fit model, but she rarely comes in for fittings. I have actually never met her. Ninety percent of the time, we don't fit petite. The petite sizes are figured out with our set of grading rules. We have mulitple sets of grading rules. As everything is fit to a size 8, we must then use grading rules to grade the sizes up and down for the remaining sizes needed. These types of measurements are usually only 1/4" or 1/2" increments. To grade up to Plus, however, the increments are significantly larger. For example, typically to grade from a Missy size up to Plus, the body length measurement of a top would increase by about 1 1/2 inches or more. One and a half inches is not a lot in terms of incehs, but when working in fashion, it can mean a big difference!
Our fit models are also measured every season, so roughly four times a year. We need to measure them and keep track of their major measurements so we know that our clothes are still accurate sizes. While our models do not need to be the skinniest, most perfect models in the world, we still need them to stay a consistent size. So if you happen to fit good measurements of average sizes, try your hand at fit modelling!
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
slow week
This week was a very slow week at work. We are currently between seasons so the workload is not very heavy right now in our department. Everyone is finishing up Holiday stuff now and not heavily into spring season yet. Basically, I just continue to measure, cut, file and do in-house errands.
Since not much is happening I thought I would talk a little about the random tidbits I have learned so far. First off, I have decided that I don't particularly like measuring garments. There are so many technicalities to, but, however, I have gotten faster at it. I like measuring pants though. They not only easier to measure, but the measurements wanted (front/back rise, inseam, waistband/joint seam circumference, ect.) are more straightforward. Measuring stuff reminds me of when Laurel had us create knock-off patterns of garments in class one day.
After I've measured all this stuff it is a lot easier to identify what the patterns would look like. Cutting patterns is also easier because I can figure out which piece is which without a ton of scrutiny. The commercial patterns aren't labeled like we label them at school, so its harder to know what you're looking at if you aren't familiar with the style. Most of the patterns are labeled similarly, with slight variations depending on the factory that made it. The pieces tend to include the style number (sometimes without the division or season characters, which makes it harder to file if I don't know what the piece is), the size, the grain line (which doesn't necessarily have an arrow) and sometimes it will have a coded number that includes some measurements and/or a code for which piece it is. For example something might say LFRT, which would mean 'Left Front.' Something interesting about the patterns is the seam allowance. Typically it's 1/2" to 3/8" on major seams. Armholes, if sleeveless, and necklines often have a 1/4" to 3/8" depending on the factory/style. The darts are usually folded out, not trimmed down. Also, Michael Kors uses french seams on all the major seams in dresses and tops. So the side seams and armholes are all french seams. Another thing I didn't know is that neither leather or shearling get a seam allowance because it's so bulky. It's all just built in.
People often ask me where all the factories we use are. There are several big factories that my supervisors work with: China Ting- everything silk; MMK- I don't know where this is, but they do a lot of wovens as well as knits; Coddy- a lot of pants are sent here as well as other things; Kyra- a factory in India handles a lot of our specialty tops like anything with sequins. We also have Wellstart, Xhjing Jiang (which I have no idea where this is or what they do), and I think one in Korea. An interesting thing I learned about sequins, however, is that when you have something where you can see a slight variation in color of the sequins that produces a visual line somewhere, it is a result of where the seamstress stopped working for the day. The sequined pieces can't be done in a day because of the tedious labor it requires. Can't have the seamstresses be blind!
Hopefully, it picks up soon so I have more to do! And the camera is finally working so I will try to get some more pictures up here. Have a great weekend!
Since not much is happening I thought I would talk a little about the random tidbits I have learned so far. First off, I have decided that I don't particularly like measuring garments. There are so many technicalities to, but, however, I have gotten faster at it. I like measuring pants though. They not only easier to measure, but the measurements wanted (front/back rise, inseam, waistband/joint seam circumference, ect.) are more straightforward. Measuring stuff reminds me of when Laurel had us create knock-off patterns of garments in class one day.
After I've measured all this stuff it is a lot easier to identify what the patterns would look like. Cutting patterns is also easier because I can figure out which piece is which without a ton of scrutiny. The commercial patterns aren't labeled like we label them at school, so its harder to know what you're looking at if you aren't familiar with the style. Most of the patterns are labeled similarly, with slight variations depending on the factory that made it. The pieces tend to include the style number (sometimes without the division or season characters, which makes it harder to file if I don't know what the piece is), the size, the grain line (which doesn't necessarily have an arrow) and sometimes it will have a coded number that includes some measurements and/or a code for which piece it is. For example something might say LFRT, which would mean 'Left Front.' Something interesting about the patterns is the seam allowance. Typically it's 1/2" to 3/8" on major seams. Armholes, if sleeveless, and necklines often have a 1/4" to 3/8" depending on the factory/style. The darts are usually folded out, not trimmed down. Also, Michael Kors uses french seams on all the major seams in dresses and tops. So the side seams and armholes are all french seams. Another thing I didn't know is that neither leather or shearling get a seam allowance because it's so bulky. It's all just built in.
People often ask me where all the factories we use are. There are several big factories that my supervisors work with: China Ting- everything silk; MMK- I don't know where this is, but they do a lot of wovens as well as knits; Coddy- a lot of pants are sent here as well as other things; Kyra- a factory in India handles a lot of our specialty tops like anything with sequins. We also have Wellstart, Xhjing Jiang (which I have no idea where this is or what they do), and I think one in Korea. An interesting thing I learned about sequins, however, is that when you have something where you can see a slight variation in color of the sequins that produces a visual line somewhere, it is a result of where the seamstress stopped working for the day. The sequined pieces can't be done in a day because of the tedious labor it requires. Can't have the seamstresses be blind!
Hopefully, it picks up soon so I have more to do! And the camera is finally working so I will try to get some more pictures up here. Have a great weekend!
Monday, June 25, 2012
Sunday, June 24, 2012
best week ever
This week at work was very exciting- we had a sample sale! A sample sale is a sale for employees only of all the garments that were either dropped from production in previous seasons or items that we received from factories to fit on our models. Therefore, there can be any array of issues with the garments ranging from small, unnoticeable details or big fit problems. On Wednesday the interns had to help set up the sale and I can tell you I was totally shocked at how much stuff there was. There was stuff from 2006- and I have no idea why that stuff wasn't sold in a previous sale because they happen at least once a year. Anyway, the sale had everything from shorts, skirts, pants, dresses and tops to fur jackets, leather bombers, sweaters and scarves. It took up the entire showroom. The best part was that about half way through the day all the interns had 20 minutes to stuff a giant shopping bag worth of stuff- anything we wanted- FOR FREE! We were all very calm on the outside, but I'm sure freaking out on the inside. I had a complete field day and walked away with several thousand dollars worth of stuff: tops, sweaters, two trench coats, a poncho rain coat, a wool coat, pants, skirts... so much! Then one of my supervisors gave me a black leather jacket afterwards! Wednesday was a great day for sure! Oh and I finally met Michael (informally) in the elevator!
As far as continuing to learn, this week I learned a bit about how to use their computer systems. We use a program called Enovia, which is a web PLM. This program allows us to enter in all the measurements, sketches, costs and orders, materials, any information for every piece ever created. Enovia allows a user to search for a particular style in many different ways. One could search a specific style number or just a portion of it. You can search a category, for example 'knits.'. It's a somewhat confusing program to figure out at first. I only know how to do about one task so far, but it is the home of literally any information we need. What's cool about it is that it isn't only a program for the tech department. I dont know which specific departments have access to all the info, but other departments can update different sections of information so everyone is always on the same page.
Through my use of the program and now that I've been working for about a month, I have definitely noticed that I understand a lot more of the tech lingo. For example when I am measuring things it goes a lot faster now and I am more familiar with what certain measurements should be close to. I don't have to constantly refer to my notes about what certain things mean. Overall, I am enjoying my experience. Especially if the free stuff keeps coming! I guess if I'm not getting paid, I really don't mind being paid in merchandise!
As far as continuing to learn, this week I learned a bit about how to use their computer systems. We use a program called Enovia, which is a web PLM. This program allows us to enter in all the measurements, sketches, costs and orders, materials, any information for every piece ever created. Enovia allows a user to search for a particular style in many different ways. One could search a specific style number or just a portion of it. You can search a category, for example 'knits.'. It's a somewhat confusing program to figure out at first. I only know how to do about one task so far, but it is the home of literally any information we need. What's cool about it is that it isn't only a program for the tech department. I dont know which specific departments have access to all the info, but other departments can update different sections of information so everyone is always on the same page.
Through my use of the program and now that I've been working for about a month, I have definitely noticed that I understand a lot more of the tech lingo. For example when I am measuring things it goes a lot faster now and I am more familiar with what certain measurements should be close to. I don't have to constantly refer to my notes about what certain things mean. Overall, I am enjoying my experience. Especially if the free stuff keeps coming! I guess if I'm not getting paid, I really don't mind being paid in merchandise!
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
weeks 3 and 4
So I forgot to blog last week, but I'll catch everyone up now! Last week was more of the same things I've been doing- cutting patterns, measuring, filing, helping to get the office organized for the start of the Spring 2013 lines. Something fun happened though on Tuesday...I got to be a fit model for a pair of pants...for all of about 3 minutes. Except I definitely looked like an idiot because I put the pants on backwards at first. They probably thought, "And this girl is a fashion major??" but I'm going to go ahead and blame it on my morning grogginess and the fact that there was no waistband. That works right? Embarrassing way to start my morning for sure.
This week was again more of the same. I walked past a meeting though with Michael Kors himself so I saw his reflection in the mirror several times! Maybe I'll meet him eventually? This week was also the showroom debut of the Resort 2012 Collection accessories line. Yesterday I got to go see all the new bags coming out and there are definitely some cool ones! Nice colors...sorry I can't share! Since it was the Collection line they were the super expensive bags too.
Since my weeks are getting repetitive as far as what I do, I thought I would share with you a little about how different things in the company work in the upcoming posts. One of the very first things that was handed to me when I got to the tech department 4 weeks ago was a sheet explaining the break down of Michael Kors style numbers. The style numbers are composed of a total of 10 numbers and letters. The 10 numbers are broken down into 5 categories. For example a style number looks like the following:
At first it was really confusing to learn the style numbers, but now that I have to file measurement charts and patterns all the time, it's getting easier. The difficult part is everyone I work for files a little bit differently as far as whether letters or numbers come first when putting them in order. I have to write things like that down to keep track of it all! But so far, I have been learning a lot. A lot of little things and tricks that you don't get taught in school unless you come across a specific problem. Hopefully, I can remember them all to take back to school with me.
This week was again more of the same. I walked past a meeting though with Michael Kors himself so I saw his reflection in the mirror several times! Maybe I'll meet him eventually? This week was also the showroom debut of the Resort 2012 Collection accessories line. Yesterday I got to go see all the new bags coming out and there are definitely some cool ones! Nice colors...sorry I can't share! Since it was the Collection line they were the super expensive bags too.
Since my weeks are getting repetitive as far as what I do, I thought I would share with you a little about how different things in the company work in the upcoming posts. One of the very first things that was handed to me when I got to the tech department 4 weeks ago was a sheet explaining the break down of Michael Kors style numbers. The style numbers are composed of a total of 10 numbers and letters. The 10 numbers are broken down into 5 categories. For example a style number looks like the following:
MU88021A09
The first letter denotes which division the style is in. The divisions we work in specifically include Missy, Petite, Plus (W), and Outlet (J).
The next letter is for the season of the style: F for fall, H for holiday, U for summer and S for spring.
The first number in the set is the last number of the year of that season. So this style was for 2008.
The next 4 numbers are a body code. The first number in the 4 number body code tells you what type of garment it is.
1- jackets 2-outerwear 3-pants 4-tops 6-sweaters 7-skirts 8-dresses 9-denim
(I don't know why there is no 5...) The 3 numbers correspond with specific patterns for that style.
The last 3 digits and/or letters are the fabric codes. Each fabric has it's own code, but I don't know how the codes are made up.
So the style number above is a dress for the Missy Summer 2008 line made from A09 fabric (whatever that is- everyone who works here knows what the codes mean, but I don't work with that area much).
At first it was really confusing to learn the style numbers, but now that I have to file measurement charts and patterns all the time, it's getting easier. The difficult part is everyone I work for files a little bit differently as far as whether letters or numbers come first when putting them in order. I have to write things like that down to keep track of it all! But so far, I have been learning a lot. A lot of little things and tricks that you don't get taught in school unless you come across a specific problem. Hopefully, I can remember them all to take back to school with me.
I apologize for the lack of photos. My camera/computer connection isn't working but it should be fixed this week!
Sunday, June 3, 2012
week 2: hands on experience
This week was a short week- no work on Monday for Memorial Day. But I learned a lot this week! On Tuesday I was with Ark and Adrienne and I learned a little about how to fix the fit of pants. Jillian, our fit model, came in to fit some pants- some that I wouldn't particularly like to ever have, but that's my opinion. A few pairs had too much room in the bum area, so ark showed me how to fix that. Generally, he cuts the seam at center back and spreads it a bit. While spreading the seam he straightens the angle at which the seam is sewn together, which makes the bagginess go away.
Another set of pants had a very specific problem. They were studded cargo pants but the material used for the pants is very thin; therefore, there is not a lot of fabric for the studs to grab onto. This means the back of the studs are very sharp against the skin...so we had to figure out how to cover the backs in order to avoid any consumer lawsuits.
The nice thing about going to fittings is that I am slowly beginning to be able to recognize what problems look like rather than looking at a garment and thinking, "Oh, that looks nice!" I am also learning little by little how one would go about fixing certain fit issues.
Wednesday I worked with Becky and I actually got to sew something. This past week was 'Proto Week,' which means all the garments for the Spring 2013 line are shown to Michael for review. This is the first time he sees things in 3D garment form rather than just sketches. The design team decided they wanted scarves for spring, but this was a last minute decision. So I got to make scarves this week. They sent us down pieces of large, swatched fabric and wanted us to hem them into square scarves. One piece of the fabric they sent was cut diagonally so I had to piece it together with another section in order to complete the pattern. It was a good project because I had something to do for a few hours where I didn't have to ask questions every ten minutes. Plus Michael will be looking at something I had a direct hand in making, which is a pretty cool idea!
Overall, a successful week! And for some reason my camera is having issues, so the pictures are still coming...
Another set of pants had a very specific problem. They were studded cargo pants but the material used for the pants is very thin; therefore, there is not a lot of fabric for the studs to grab onto. This means the back of the studs are very sharp against the skin...so we had to figure out how to cover the backs in order to avoid any consumer lawsuits.
The nice thing about going to fittings is that I am slowly beginning to be able to recognize what problems look like rather than looking at a garment and thinking, "Oh, that looks nice!" I am also learning little by little how one would go about fixing certain fit issues.
Wednesday I worked with Becky and I actually got to sew something. This past week was 'Proto Week,' which means all the garments for the Spring 2013 line are shown to Michael for review. This is the first time he sees things in 3D garment form rather than just sketches. The design team decided they wanted scarves for spring, but this was a last minute decision. So I got to make scarves this week. They sent us down pieces of large, swatched fabric and wanted us to hem them into square scarves. One piece of the fabric they sent was cut diagonally so I had to piece it together with another section in order to complete the pattern. It was a good project because I had something to do for a few hours where I didn't have to ask questions every ten minutes. Plus Michael will be looking at something I had a direct hand in making, which is a pretty cool idea!
Overall, a successful week! And for some reason my camera is having issues, so the pictures are still coming...
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