I completed my internship this week and it was definitely a sad day. I learned so much from everyone I worked with. I will be going back to school with a better understanding of so many industrial things. I learned to accurately measure garments flat. This will help me in school if something is not coming out right, I know I can measure it to compare the numbers of the flat garment to my patterns and check what happened. It will also help me in pattern making and draping because I have a general knowledge of the average numbers used (at least for MK) for different measurements. For instance I will always remember now that the apex is typically 10.5" from the HPS or that the waist is 15" from HPS. Same with high hip and low hip measurements. I definitely feel this will be helpful in creating designs on the form in draping.
I also have a better understanding on what to do to help fix fit problems. While at work I only watched the tech designers fix fit issues, they were very good at explaining what they were doing and why. Hopefully I can remember all their little tricks and tips about getting a good fit. I have also noticed that since working there when I go shopping and try something on, I am able to figure out why something may not fit me well. I can tell what is wrong with the garment and think about how I would fix it.
I'm so thankful that I did this internship because it was a great environment to work in as well. Everyone I worked with was wonderful. They really have a tight knit group there in tech, but the invited us interns in with open arms. We have jokes and laughs amid the seriousness of our work. They even threw us a pizza lunch with desserts this week before I left to thank us for helping them. They wrote us thank you cards and let us take 3 jackets for free. I also received a Starbucks gift card from one of my bosses. How many interns can say they really formed bonds with their supervisors? I know that none of my other friends were thrown a party for being an intern. I am so glad this was such a hands on experience. I never had to run and get anyone coffee or pick up anyone's dry cleaning. Michael Kors has a great internship program going for them and I would suggest it to anyone.
The major thing I learned from doing this internship is that I don't want to be a tech designer. There's not enough creativity involved. It's a lot of number crunching- and I don't like fractions nearly enough to do that! I am glad I did it because I learned a lot of valuable information, insight, and skills that will help me in the long run. But hey, that's what internships are all about: finding out what you do and don't want to do with your career. We have to get experience somewhere and I am so happy that I started here.
I wish to thank all my supervisors and fellow interns for a great summer! While I won't miss that bus commute, I will miss seeing everyone every day. I guess I'll have to visit!
Friday, August 3, 2012
tech packs
One thing I was always working with at this internship was tech packs. The tech packs are packets with all the information about a particular garment that get sent to the factories and different departments within the company. Michael Kors uses a program called Enovia, which I think I have mentioned before. It is a web PLM, which stands for product lifecycle management. This program is capable of storing and organizing every garment ever made by MK.
The tech packs are comprised of eleven different sections, some used and some not by our department. Three of our factories (MMK, Coddy, and PBMS) can see the tech packs directly through their own version of Enovia. Kyra, one of our other sample rooms, receives the tech packs through an emailed PDF. (As a side note, I got to go on a drop off run to Kyra. Kyra is located on 37th Street so we don't ship the packages there; they get hand delivered. I went there and went up the high rise and the showroom is super tiny. There's just stuff everywhere! I didn't see any sewing machines or anything though, so maybe we drop off the samples and they send them out somewhere else? Who knows!)
I was able to take pictures of an old tech pack to help explain what the different things are.
The tech packs are comprised of eleven different sections, some used and some not by our department. Three of our factories (MMK, Coddy, and PBMS) can see the tech packs directly through their own version of Enovia. Kyra, one of our other sample rooms, receives the tech packs through an emailed PDF. (As a side note, I got to go on a drop off run to Kyra. Kyra is located on 37th Street so we don't ship the packages there; they get hand delivered. I went there and went up the high rise and the showroom is super tiny. There's just stuff everywhere! I didn't see any sewing machines or anything though, so maybe we drop off the samples and they send them out somewhere else? Who knows!)
I was able to take pictures of an old tech pack to help explain what the different things are.
Page 1: Product Overview
The product overview is like the cover page for the tech pack. It includes the basic information like the sketch, the style number, the factory, the FAD (fit approval date), fabric, colors, all that good stuff.
Page 2: Sketch Overview
This page will have the detailed flat sketch of the garment. MK does all their flats by hand rather than Illustrator, which I thought was interesting. This page may also include design details or inspirations and the designer's comments.
Page 3: Artwork
This particular tech pack doesn't have anything on the artwork page, but it's pretty much the same concept as the sketch overview. It may have an example of the print on a fabric or something, but it is not used in tech.
Page 4: Bill of Materials
This page will list out every material used for the garment, from the fabrics, to trims, buttons, threads, zippers, chains, ect. It was also list the prices of all of these. We don't use this page in tech.
Page 5: Color Details
All the colors of the garment fabric and trims are listed on this page. We don't use this page.
Page 6: Current Measurements
This page is very important in the tech department. This is where we keep track of all the current measurements of a particular garment. Every time a sample comes in we have to measure it following the POMs (point of measure) listed on the current measurement charts. The measurements listed are the measurements we requested for that piece, but the samples do not usually come in at the exact number we requested. The current measurement chart can take up multiple pages. The longest chart I saw was 4 pages of POMs.
Page 7: Measurement History
We don't use this page either, but it basically just keeps track of the changes we make to different measurements on the charts. This can also be several pages long.
Pages 8-10: Sample Requests
The sample request pages are also very important in tech. It consists of multiple pages that keep track of recorded measurements for the sample, photos from the fitting, comments to the factory about the fit and requests for the next sample. Sample requests can become lengthy especially when there are a lot of problems with a current sample.
Page 11: Graded Measurements
This is another chart that tracks all the measurements for each size of that garment that will be produced. We fit samples as size 8/M, plus, and occasionally petite. But all the other sizes in between are figured out based on a grading scale. To grade things means to size up or down. This is also an important sheet for the tech department.
Page 12: Graded Increments
We don't use this page either. All it does is state the numerical differences between sizes.
Page 13: How to Measure
This page is just a more in depth description of the POMs and how to physically go about measuring the garment. We don't use it because we all know what the POMs mean.
Each team (tops, dresses, knits, pants, jackets, ect.) keeps record of all their own tech packs. I was also in charge of filing the tech packs in binders for each team I worked for. The tech packs are organized by season in a binder and filed by style number. Needless to say, the binders are huge!
Friday, July 27, 2012
tasks at work
As my team has been running out of things for me to do lately, I thought I would share some pictures of what I have been doing. In the past week or so a lot of showroom samples have been coming in. However, if something is wrong with the sample, there is not enough time to send it back for a new sample before review. So, tech gets the lucky task of fixing all the details that are wrong.
This week I had to cut the hem off of a dress and sew it on (hand sew it!) to another dress at the waistline. The dress was supposed to have a crocheted waistband, but it came in in an eyelet fabric like the rest of the bodice.
This is the hem I cut from the other dress.
This was then hand sewn to the bodice of the dress...
This was an all day task; took 3 hours.
When the people I work for don't need anything I also work with Anand, who does all the MMK jackets. A lot of times he'll have me make exact copies of patterns for him so that one can be sent to the original factory and one can be sent to a new factory to see which comes out better. Rather than trace the patterns he just does them on the copier and tapes them together. I also have to copy the under sleeve pattern twice because he pastes it to the other side of the sleeve in order to make an entire flat sleeve pattern.
This week Danielle and I also had to take the trim off the pockets of 4 jackets for Anand. We had to then hand sew another color trim on the pockets for showroom samples.
Only one more week to go!
This week I had to cut the hem off of a dress and sew it on (hand sew it!) to another dress at the waistline. The dress was supposed to have a crocheted waistband, but it came in in an eyelet fabric like the rest of the bodice.
This is the hem I cut from the other dress.
This was then hand sewn to the bodice of the dress...
When the people I work for don't need anything I also work with Anand, who does all the MMK jackets. A lot of times he'll have me make exact copies of patterns for him so that one can be sent to the original factory and one can be sent to a new factory to see which comes out better. Rather than trace the patterns he just does them on the copier and tapes them together. I also have to copy the under sleeve pattern twice because he pastes it to the other side of the sleeve in order to make an entire flat sleeve pattern.
This week Danielle and I also had to take the trim off the pockets of 4 jackets for Anand. We had to then hand sew another color trim on the pockets for showroom samples.
Only one more week to go!
Sunday, July 15, 2012
knits vs wovens
The internship is getting a bit repetitive at this point, so I thought I would share what I have learned about the differences between knits and wovens. I work with the wovens- tops, dresses, and pants (which includes denim). Knits is a completely different area with it's own set of rules.
When measuring woven garments, the garments can be stretched a little to meet the necessary measurement. They fabric gives a bit and it needs to be as flat as possible when measuring. Knits are obviously stretchy, so when laying out a knit piece you have to be very careful. In order to flatten out the knit garment, one should just pat it down flat rather than pulling or stretching it. The measurements need to be accurate before any stretch is factored in.
The actual measurements are different for both too. For example, all woven pieces will ask for circumferences: bust, waist, high hip, low hip, sweep (which is the bottom opening of tops or dresses), muscle (measured an inch from the armhole in the sleeve), forearm (measured six inches up from the sleeve opening), knee, ect. On knit garments, the number is only half the circumference, so exactly the number you get when you measure flat. It's kind of nice not to need to double the number for knits- saves me the math, I was confused, however, the first time that I measured knits because I didn't know the numbers were halved. Knits will also measure things by ribs, or the variations in type of knit. For instance, a woven top will ask for the bottom hem measurement, but a knit may ask for the ribbed trim measurement because it is knit as a whole piece completely finished.
I thought I would also explain what the major measurements are on woven tops since I work with those the most:
Across Shoulder- measured from shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Across Front- 5" down from high point shoulder (HPS) (often 6" on plus sizes)
Across Back- 5" down from HPS (also 6" on plus sizes)
Neck Width- from HPS to center back to other HPS- a 3-point measurement
Front Neck Drop- from HPS to top of front neckline
Back Neck Drop- from HPS to top of back neckline
Shoulder Slope- measurement from line parallel of HPS down to shoulder seam
Bust circumference- measured from 1" below the armhole
Waist Placement- 15 1/2" down from HPS
Waist Circumference- around the 15 1/2" measurement
High Hip Placement- typically 19 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
High Hip Circumference- measured at 19 1/2"
Low Hip Placement- 23 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
Low Hip Circ.- measured at 23 1/2"
Body Length- measured from center back neck to hem
Pants have a whole different set of measurements, but I don't measure them often so I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head.
Hopefully more pictures to come soon!
When measuring woven garments, the garments can be stretched a little to meet the necessary measurement. They fabric gives a bit and it needs to be as flat as possible when measuring. Knits are obviously stretchy, so when laying out a knit piece you have to be very careful. In order to flatten out the knit garment, one should just pat it down flat rather than pulling or stretching it. The measurements need to be accurate before any stretch is factored in.
The actual measurements are different for both too. For example, all woven pieces will ask for circumferences: bust, waist, high hip, low hip, sweep (which is the bottom opening of tops or dresses), muscle (measured an inch from the armhole in the sleeve), forearm (measured six inches up from the sleeve opening), knee, ect. On knit garments, the number is only half the circumference, so exactly the number you get when you measure flat. It's kind of nice not to need to double the number for knits- saves me the math, I was confused, however, the first time that I measured knits because I didn't know the numbers were halved. Knits will also measure things by ribs, or the variations in type of knit. For instance, a woven top will ask for the bottom hem measurement, but a knit may ask for the ribbed trim measurement because it is knit as a whole piece completely finished.
I thought I would also explain what the major measurements are on woven tops since I work with those the most:
Across Shoulder- measured from shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Across Front- 5" down from high point shoulder (HPS) (often 6" on plus sizes)
Across Back- 5" down from HPS (also 6" on plus sizes)
Neck Width- from HPS to center back to other HPS- a 3-point measurement
Front Neck Drop- from HPS to top of front neckline
Back Neck Drop- from HPS to top of back neckline
Shoulder Slope- measurement from line parallel of HPS down to shoulder seam
Bust circumference- measured from 1" below the armhole
Waist Placement- 15 1/2" down from HPS
Waist Circumference- around the 15 1/2" measurement
High Hip Placement- typically 19 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
High Hip Circumference- measured at 19 1/2"
Low Hip Placement- 23 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
Low Hip Circ.- measured at 23 1/2"
Body Length- measured from center back neck to hem
Pants have a whole different set of measurements, but I don't measure them often so I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head.
Hopefully more pictures to come soon!
Friday, July 6, 2012
a different kind of model
So I have realized in talking to people about what I do and see at work that people don't realize that fit models are not the tiny twigs you see on the runway. At least not at Michael Kors anyway. This week I figured I would fill you in on some information about fit models since it was a slow work week, what with July 4th and all.
Michael Kors uses fit models who fit in size 8 and a medium, whether that is pants, skirts, tops, dressed, jackets, anything. Everything we make gets fit and most of the time a garment will go through mulitple fittings before it is approved for production. We use a few main fit models at MK. The models for Missy, which is normal sizing, are all size 8's. However, we have variations of size 8's. For example, Bess is on the smaller size of the 8 and Jillian is on the fuller side of an 8. Because not everyone is the same size 8, the styles are adjusted to fall somewhere in between in order to accommodate as many customers as possible.
We also have a plus size model who fits every style that comes in plus. Susan is a size 2X or 18W, depending on what garment is being fit. She is very aware of the measurements she needs because the style has to still look congruent with the Missy version. Susan is always asking our tech designers, "What did Missy do?" so she can help us decide how much needs to be added or removed in her fit to stay consistent. Susan has to be very aware of all these numbers because the designers who actually create the looks do not come to plus size fittings. Designers only come to the Missy fittings. At the Missy fittings, the designers have a say in how the fit was intended to look and can change anything they want in fittings. Our tech designers take in to consideration the designers' requests and they work together to find a way to make things work out the best way possible. Then in the plus fittings our designers have to go over these changes with Susan.
We have a petite fit model, but she rarely comes in for fittings. I have actually never met her. Ninety percent of the time, we don't fit petite. The petite sizes are figured out with our set of grading rules. We have mulitple sets of grading rules. As everything is fit to a size 8, we must then use grading rules to grade the sizes up and down for the remaining sizes needed. These types of measurements are usually only 1/4" or 1/2" increments. To grade up to Plus, however, the increments are significantly larger. For example, typically to grade from a Missy size up to Plus, the body length measurement of a top would increase by about 1 1/2 inches or more. One and a half inches is not a lot in terms of incehs, but when working in fashion, it can mean a big difference!
Our fit models are also measured every season, so roughly four times a year. We need to measure them and keep track of their major measurements so we know that our clothes are still accurate sizes. While our models do not need to be the skinniest, most perfect models in the world, we still need them to stay a consistent size. So if you happen to fit good measurements of average sizes, try your hand at fit modelling!
Michael Kors uses fit models who fit in size 8 and a medium, whether that is pants, skirts, tops, dressed, jackets, anything. Everything we make gets fit and most of the time a garment will go through mulitple fittings before it is approved for production. We use a few main fit models at MK. The models for Missy, which is normal sizing, are all size 8's. However, we have variations of size 8's. For example, Bess is on the smaller size of the 8 and Jillian is on the fuller side of an 8. Because not everyone is the same size 8, the styles are adjusted to fall somewhere in between in order to accommodate as many customers as possible.
We also have a plus size model who fits every style that comes in plus. Susan is a size 2X or 18W, depending on what garment is being fit. She is very aware of the measurements she needs because the style has to still look congruent with the Missy version. Susan is always asking our tech designers, "What did Missy do?" so she can help us decide how much needs to be added or removed in her fit to stay consistent. Susan has to be very aware of all these numbers because the designers who actually create the looks do not come to plus size fittings. Designers only come to the Missy fittings. At the Missy fittings, the designers have a say in how the fit was intended to look and can change anything they want in fittings. Our tech designers take in to consideration the designers' requests and they work together to find a way to make things work out the best way possible. Then in the plus fittings our designers have to go over these changes with Susan.
We have a petite fit model, but she rarely comes in for fittings. I have actually never met her. Ninety percent of the time, we don't fit petite. The petite sizes are figured out with our set of grading rules. We have mulitple sets of grading rules. As everything is fit to a size 8, we must then use grading rules to grade the sizes up and down for the remaining sizes needed. These types of measurements are usually only 1/4" or 1/2" increments. To grade up to Plus, however, the increments are significantly larger. For example, typically to grade from a Missy size up to Plus, the body length measurement of a top would increase by about 1 1/2 inches or more. One and a half inches is not a lot in terms of incehs, but when working in fashion, it can mean a big difference!
Our fit models are also measured every season, so roughly four times a year. We need to measure them and keep track of their major measurements so we know that our clothes are still accurate sizes. While our models do not need to be the skinniest, most perfect models in the world, we still need them to stay a consistent size. So if you happen to fit good measurements of average sizes, try your hand at fit modelling!
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
slow week
This week was a very slow week at work. We are currently between seasons so the workload is not very heavy right now in our department. Everyone is finishing up Holiday stuff now and not heavily into spring season yet. Basically, I just continue to measure, cut, file and do in-house errands.
Since not much is happening I thought I would talk a little about the random tidbits I have learned so far. First off, I have decided that I don't particularly like measuring garments. There are so many technicalities to, but, however, I have gotten faster at it. I like measuring pants though. They not only easier to measure, but the measurements wanted (front/back rise, inseam, waistband/joint seam circumference, ect.) are more straightforward. Measuring stuff reminds me of when Laurel had us create knock-off patterns of garments in class one day.
After I've measured all this stuff it is a lot easier to identify what the patterns would look like. Cutting patterns is also easier because I can figure out which piece is which without a ton of scrutiny. The commercial patterns aren't labeled like we label them at school, so its harder to know what you're looking at if you aren't familiar with the style. Most of the patterns are labeled similarly, with slight variations depending on the factory that made it. The pieces tend to include the style number (sometimes without the division or season characters, which makes it harder to file if I don't know what the piece is), the size, the grain line (which doesn't necessarily have an arrow) and sometimes it will have a coded number that includes some measurements and/or a code for which piece it is. For example something might say LFRT, which would mean 'Left Front.' Something interesting about the patterns is the seam allowance. Typically it's 1/2" to 3/8" on major seams. Armholes, if sleeveless, and necklines often have a 1/4" to 3/8" depending on the factory/style. The darts are usually folded out, not trimmed down. Also, Michael Kors uses french seams on all the major seams in dresses and tops. So the side seams and armholes are all french seams. Another thing I didn't know is that neither leather or shearling get a seam allowance because it's so bulky. It's all just built in.
People often ask me where all the factories we use are. There are several big factories that my supervisors work with: China Ting- everything silk; MMK- I don't know where this is, but they do a lot of wovens as well as knits; Coddy- a lot of pants are sent here as well as other things; Kyra- a factory in India handles a lot of our specialty tops like anything with sequins. We also have Wellstart, Xhjing Jiang (which I have no idea where this is or what they do), and I think one in Korea. An interesting thing I learned about sequins, however, is that when you have something where you can see a slight variation in color of the sequins that produces a visual line somewhere, it is a result of where the seamstress stopped working for the day. The sequined pieces can't be done in a day because of the tedious labor it requires. Can't have the seamstresses be blind!
Hopefully, it picks up soon so I have more to do! And the camera is finally working so I will try to get some more pictures up here. Have a great weekend!
Since not much is happening I thought I would talk a little about the random tidbits I have learned so far. First off, I have decided that I don't particularly like measuring garments. There are so many technicalities to, but, however, I have gotten faster at it. I like measuring pants though. They not only easier to measure, but the measurements wanted (front/back rise, inseam, waistband/joint seam circumference, ect.) are more straightforward. Measuring stuff reminds me of when Laurel had us create knock-off patterns of garments in class one day.
After I've measured all this stuff it is a lot easier to identify what the patterns would look like. Cutting patterns is also easier because I can figure out which piece is which without a ton of scrutiny. The commercial patterns aren't labeled like we label them at school, so its harder to know what you're looking at if you aren't familiar with the style. Most of the patterns are labeled similarly, with slight variations depending on the factory that made it. The pieces tend to include the style number (sometimes without the division or season characters, which makes it harder to file if I don't know what the piece is), the size, the grain line (which doesn't necessarily have an arrow) and sometimes it will have a coded number that includes some measurements and/or a code for which piece it is. For example something might say LFRT, which would mean 'Left Front.' Something interesting about the patterns is the seam allowance. Typically it's 1/2" to 3/8" on major seams. Armholes, if sleeveless, and necklines often have a 1/4" to 3/8" depending on the factory/style. The darts are usually folded out, not trimmed down. Also, Michael Kors uses french seams on all the major seams in dresses and tops. So the side seams and armholes are all french seams. Another thing I didn't know is that neither leather or shearling get a seam allowance because it's so bulky. It's all just built in.
People often ask me where all the factories we use are. There are several big factories that my supervisors work with: China Ting- everything silk; MMK- I don't know where this is, but they do a lot of wovens as well as knits; Coddy- a lot of pants are sent here as well as other things; Kyra- a factory in India handles a lot of our specialty tops like anything with sequins. We also have Wellstart, Xhjing Jiang (which I have no idea where this is or what they do), and I think one in Korea. An interesting thing I learned about sequins, however, is that when you have something where you can see a slight variation in color of the sequins that produces a visual line somewhere, it is a result of where the seamstress stopped working for the day. The sequined pieces can't be done in a day because of the tedious labor it requires. Can't have the seamstresses be blind!
Hopefully, it picks up soon so I have more to do! And the camera is finally working so I will try to get some more pictures up here. Have a great weekend!
Monday, June 25, 2012
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