So I have realized in talking to people about what I do and see at work that people don't realize that fit models are not the tiny twigs you see on the runway. At least not at Michael Kors anyway. This week I figured I would fill you in on some information about fit models since it was a slow work week, what with July 4th and all.
Michael Kors uses fit models who fit in size 8 and a medium, whether that is pants, skirts, tops, dressed, jackets, anything. Everything we make gets fit and most of the time a garment will go through mulitple fittings before it is approved for production. We use a few main fit models at MK. The models for Missy, which is normal sizing, are all size 8's. However, we have variations of size 8's. For example, Bess is on the smaller size of the 8 and Jillian is on the fuller side of an 8. Because not everyone is the same size 8, the styles are adjusted to fall somewhere in between in order to accommodate as many customers as possible.
We also have a plus size model who fits every style that comes in plus. Susan is a size 2X or 18W, depending on what garment is being fit. She is very aware of the measurements she needs because the style has to still look congruent with the Missy version. Susan is always asking our tech designers, "What did Missy do?" so she can help us decide how much needs to be added or removed in her fit to stay consistent. Susan has to be very aware of all these numbers because the designers who actually create the looks do not come to plus size fittings. Designers only come to the Missy fittings. At the Missy fittings, the designers have a say in how the fit was intended to look and can change anything they want in fittings. Our tech designers take in to consideration the designers' requests and they work together to find a way to make things work out the best way possible. Then in the plus fittings our designers have to go over these changes with Susan.
We have a petite fit model, but she rarely comes in for fittings. I have actually never met her. Ninety percent of the time, we don't fit petite. The petite sizes are figured out with our set of grading rules. We have mulitple sets of grading rules. As everything is fit to a size 8, we must then use grading rules to grade the sizes up and down for the remaining sizes needed. These types of measurements are usually only 1/4" or 1/2" increments. To grade up to Plus, however, the increments are significantly larger. For example, typically to grade from a Missy size up to Plus, the body length measurement of a top would increase by about 1 1/2 inches or more. One and a half inches is not a lot in terms of incehs, but when working in fashion, it can mean a big difference!
Our fit models are also measured every season, so roughly four times a year. We need to measure them and keep track of their major measurements so we know that our clothes are still accurate sizes. While our models do not need to be the skinniest, most perfect models in the world, we still need them to stay a consistent size. So if you happen to fit good measurements of average sizes, try your hand at fit modelling!
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