The internship is getting a bit repetitive at this point, so I thought I would share what I have learned about the differences between knits and wovens. I work with the wovens- tops, dresses, and pants (which includes denim). Knits is a completely different area with it's own set of rules.
When measuring woven garments, the garments can be stretched a little to meet the necessary measurement. They fabric gives a bit and it needs to be as flat as possible when measuring. Knits are obviously stretchy, so when laying out a knit piece you have to be very careful. In order to flatten out the knit garment, one should just pat it down flat rather than pulling or stretching it. The measurements need to be accurate before any stretch is factored in.
The actual measurements are different for both too. For example, all woven pieces will ask for circumferences: bust, waist, high hip, low hip, sweep (which is the bottom opening of tops or dresses), muscle (measured an inch from the armhole in the sleeve), forearm (measured six inches up from the sleeve opening), knee, ect. On knit garments, the number is only half the circumference, so exactly the number you get when you measure flat. It's kind of nice not to need to double the number for knits- saves me the math, I was confused, however, the first time that I measured knits because I didn't know the numbers were halved. Knits will also measure things by ribs, or the variations in type of knit. For instance, a woven top will ask for the bottom hem measurement, but a knit may ask for the ribbed trim measurement because it is knit as a whole piece completely finished.
I thought I would also explain what the major measurements are on woven tops since I work with those the most:
Across Shoulder- measured from shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Across Front- 5" down from high point shoulder (HPS) (often 6" on plus sizes)
Across Back- 5" down from HPS (also 6" on plus sizes)
Neck Width- from HPS to center back to other HPS- a 3-point measurement
Front Neck Drop- from HPS to top of front neckline
Back Neck Drop- from HPS to top of back neckline
Shoulder Slope- measurement from line parallel of HPS down to shoulder seam
Bust circumference- measured from 1" below the armhole
Waist Placement- 15 1/2" down from HPS
Waist Circumference- around the 15 1/2" measurement
High Hip Placement- typically 19 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
High Hip Circumference- measured at 19 1/2"
Low Hip Placement- 23 1/2" down from HPS (on dresses)
Low Hip Circ.- measured at 23 1/2"
Body Length- measured from center back neck to hem
Pants have a whole different set of measurements, but I don't measure them often so I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head.
Hopefully more pictures to come soon!
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